It is hard to believe I am finally here in the Basque Country. I’m tempted to say that I’ve waited a long time to get here to Euskalherria to start my fieldwork, but that wouldn’t be a completely accurate statement. I could even say with some certainty that this year’s work and life in the Basque Country will represent both a reduction and culmination of my life’s interests and experiences, however, that would be limiting to the extensions of those same interests which lead me here: languages, culture, wine, travel, food, diversity, and making connections with people around the world. So, before sharing the amazing experiences I’ve already had while studying here, I would like to highlight those which were had before my arrival to the Basque Country this January.
Knowing I would be conducting fieldwork here for a whole year, I wanted to take advantage of the time and opportunity to travel to South America with my father. In 2014, I spent an amazing time learning about the production and wine-making process in Casablanca, Chile. With so much Basque heritage there, I was delighted to discover that the Basque diaspora still held its roots firmly planted in this South American country. Finding the popular Basque wine called Chacoli was an adventure I won’t forget (see previous blog to read more about Chacoli in South America), discovering the ways in which a culture can change and be maintained across the globe. But before returning to Chile, my dad and I checked out some Basque culture in Argentina.
I had come to know of a Basque restaurant from a man who had wandered into the Center for Basque Studies before my departure. He told me about his family and how one of them had started a restaurant in Buenos Aires. I mentioned I’d be heading there soon, so he gave me the information to find Leiketio. The food and drink which combined aspects of both Basque and Latin American cuisine were amazing. However, the most satisfying part of the meal was being able to use the little Basque I had acquired from the previous summer to speak to a server who had recently moved from the Basque Country.
My second encounter with Basque culture in South America happened after my dad had returned to the US, and I had moved on for my second visit to Chile. I was in the beautiful, historic town of Valparaiso, listening to music and enjoying the warmer weather when a couple had passed me speaking Basque. I started talking to them and found out they were the band Niña Coyote and Chico Tornado (and very well known I might add in the Basque Country! See below for a clip of their music). Also turns out the family of one of the members lived on the same street that I currently live now here in Euskalherria!
Just goes to show that si, el mundo es un pañuelo! Hau bai mundu txikia! It’s a small world!
I hope to keep making these cross-cultural connections over the next year here. Stay tuned for more adventures in fieldwork from here in Euskalherria!